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Post by easttex on Aug 6, 2015 13:13:31 GMT -5
Please do keep us posted, and ask any questions that occur to you. Parrots are unlike any other companion animal, and there's a wealth of experience on the forum to help you get the hang of it.  |
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Post by biteybird on Aug 7, 2015 2:48:36 GMT -5
Welcome to you and your little quaker friend. He looks adorable. You sound as though you are willing to be patient with him and that is great.
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Post by eddymvp on Aug 7, 2015 22:56:14 GMT -5
He hates the perch and I can't get him to get on the perch
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Post by easttex on Aug 8, 2015 6:39:50 GMT -5
I'm not surprised. He probably does not want anything new introduced to him at this point. He is not ready. I know it is hard when you are anxious to improve his life and get him integrated into yours, but it will be much better in the long run if you almost literally leave him alone for a while.
All new things should be introduced slowly to most parrots. In the wild, and you should understand that your bird is not domesticated and is basically a wild animal, unfamiliar things mean danger. If you read posts from this forum, you'll see that even Quakers we've had for years have fears and phobias that we don't understand. Respect that fear, and when you see it, remove the cause if you can. Leave the perch on the table if he is not showing fear of it, but leave it at that for now.
Let him watch you going about your daily routine. If he is in a room away from where the family activity is centered, move him to where you are most of the time, but in a quiet corner where he can watch without feeling threatened. Here's another tip to help him feel more secure. If you can, place his cage where two sides back up to a wall or other structure, but still elevated off the floor. If you can't do that, place a towel so that it covers the back of the cage. This will give him a refuge when he wants it. While you watch him, be sneaky about it. Open staring can be scary to a parrot.
I recommend again that you do nothing more that regular feeding and cleaning, dropping treats in his bowl, and talking gently to him for the time being. This is obviously a bird that you will need to go very slowly with. I know it's hard, but making him feel safe and secure should be the number one priority. To do that, you have to look through his eyes.
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Post by eddymvp on Aug 8, 2015 10:33:47 GMT -5
Thanks , what does it mean when he flies away and start making loud noise for a few seconds
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Post by easttex on Aug 8, 2015 11:23:46 GMT -5
It depends, and could mean a number of different things. Remember that a behavior is always a response to something, so you have to look at what happened before he flew off to begin to understand it. You don't always see what caused it, but something did.
If I were you, I would keep him caged for at least a few days. If he flies off and doesn't want to return to his cage, you may wind up setting back any progress you are making with him. He'll be okay confined.
Also, take some time to make sure you have bird-proofed your home. Toilet lids should always be kept closed, and any other open water covered. You don't want him in the kitchen when you are cooking. You should probably throw out any Teflon pans you have. They can create highly toxic fumes that will kill him in no time. He should not be able to access chemicals or things like pesticides. Look for places where he could get into and be stuck. (Walking backwards is not always a natural movement.) Make sure he can't escape through open windows/doors. This one can be especially hard with small children in the household.
That's all that occurs to me right now, but others might have some suggestions, too.
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Post by eddymvp on Aug 8, 2015 11:53:00 GMT -5
He usually spend most of his days on that of the cage and goes inside the cage to get food, he flew away when I tried to get the perch close to him, if we don't get close to him he just stays on top of his cage. I told everyone in the house to not try to grab him and to leave him along for a few days, I have been moving the cage to a room where we spend most of the time and when I'm moving the cage he does not fly away but I can see he is thinking about it
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Post by easttex on Aug 8, 2015 13:57:10 GMT -5
Then I think what you saw was his fear response to the perch. It would be best to initially place it somewhere not close to his cage. As long as he is not panicking at the very sight of of it, keep it where he can see it. Give that a day, then move it a little closer, and leave it as long as he's not showing fear. Next day, move it closer, etc., until you can leave it next to his cage. Take a look at this link: www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?c=15+1795&aid=3334It's not specific to Quakers, but has some good basic information on reading your bird, based on physical and sound clues. |
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Post by julianna on Aug 9, 2015 15:29:58 GMT -5
You will very quickly learn their screams. Some are danger calls, thank you calls, come here calls... etc. I am sure right now to you they all sound the same but they really are not. Pay close attention to what is going on when he makes noise and soon you will know the difference.
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Post by eddymvp on Aug 9, 2015 19:26:58 GMT -5
Thanks I think I heard the come here noise and since I stopped trying to grab him , I think he is starting to trust me, I will wait another week before I try the step up
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Post by easttex on Aug 10, 2015 4:26:54 GMT -5
Good progress! You'll find if you keep letting Cuca set the pace and choose to participate he'll come around. Using force on parrots backfires. Training with positive reinforcement is a good way to build a bond, too.
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Post by eddymvp on Aug 11, 2015 17:30:58 GMT -5
I'm struggling making him to take any treats , I have given him cereal, popcorn, banana and oranges and he refuses all of them. Are there any specific treats they love ?
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Post by easttex on Aug 11, 2015 18:29:37 GMT -5
Did you try putting them in his bowl first? If he ate them there but won't take them from your hand, he's just not ready for your hand yet.
If he's not eating them from the bowl, either, then he may just need some time to learn that they are edible. If that's the case, next time before offering one, try eating some of it in front of him and really exaggerate your enjoyment. Then give him some.
Every bird has some different preferences. Mine likes grapes. They are not good for training and they shouldn't get many. Too much sugar for not much nutrition. Little bits of toast are popular here, as are bits of crackers. Some love millet. Almost anything that is healthy for you will be healthy for them. Stay away from chocolate, avocado, caffeine, and alcohol. Anything salty or sugary should be very limited.
Bits of shelled sunflower seeds are a great training treat, but they really have to be limited with Quakers. They are prone to fatty liver disease. But if you need something just to get him used to taking something from you, they might work.
What are you giving him for his regular diet? Is there anything there that he really enjoys? |
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Post by eddymvp on Aug 11, 2015 23:34:51 GMT -5
I have put it in his bow and he is not eating them, I have ate it in front of him and he doesn't want it, for his regular diet we give him. Kaytee - gourmet variety diet
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Post by easttex on Aug 12, 2015 4:47:19 GMT -5
The biggest problem with that type of diet is that your bird will pick and choose what he eats out of it, and you can never be sure he is getting all the nutrients he needs. It will be much better in the long run if you gradually switch him over to a quality pellet.
The second problem with that type of diet is that you are essentially already giving him the treats that are built into it, and finding a motivating food will be harder. See what item he is eating first from the Kaytee, and start removing that before you feed him. Then you can use those as rewards.
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