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Post by eunoia93 on Jun 13, 2015 18:02:23 GMT -5
Greetings everyone!
So yesterday I brought home a 2 month old quaker parrot. He is a hand-fed baby with no previous owners and is in the process of being weaned (has 2 feedings a day). It's honestly my first bird and I was looking for advice on how I should treat him since I just brought him home? With some small pets I've been advised that you should leave them alone for awhile to adjust. Is this true of quaker parrots? So far I've been interacting with him a lot and sometimes he doesn't seem to mind attention and other times he shies away from me a bit.
He squaks a bit and today, on day 2 he has been climbing to the top of his cage to perch and has jumped off quite a few times. I simply had him step up to my hand from the floor and put him back in the cage (I leave the door open). I also carried him around the room a bit on my hand and he walked around on some stuff (floor, desk, bed). He always seems to want to get "up" somewhere and climbs up on everything he can find...even though the lady at the pet store said he would prefer to stay on the floor of his cage for awhile. He doesn't seem to care much for the floor of his cage.
So what do you think? I've honestly been really anxious this whole time about doing the "wrong" thing. Any advice is appreciated. We JUST brought him home 2 days ago.
Thank you.
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Post by biteybird on Jun 13, 2015 19:41:50 GMT -5
Hi, welcome eunoia93 and baby quaker! Well, you are in for a lot of fun (and, probably, a busy and noisy time). We got our blue quaker, Bonnie, at 8 weeks old. Firstly, if you are leaving the cage door open, I recommend 'hazard-proofing' your house (or at least the parts your quaker has access to). Look critically at what you have in his - I'll assume 'he' for now - space (e.g., ceiling fans, hot surfaces, small spaces he could get stuck in, other pets). You could sit by his cage and talk softly to him and let him approach you if/when he wants to. Yes, he does have some adjusting to do, but it sounds like he's already doing very well with you. It sounds like he is trying to fledge (fly for the first time) by jumping off the top of his cage. This can be dangerous if he has nowhere to land (to cling to with his feet) or lands on a hard surface. Maybe you could put a freestanding perch in front of his cage, closer to the floor and put some towels on the floor? Then next time he steps onto your hand you could put him on that perch and he might have a safe, short flight! There is LOTS of info on this site if you are willing to put in the reading time. I'm sure the other members will chime in soon with a wealth of advice for you. Good luck & let us know how he and you are going!
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Post by cnyguy on Jun 13, 2015 20:25:42 GMT -5
It sounds like you're off to a good start. Biteybird made some good suggestions-- a hanging perch on the outside of the cage would be a good idea. I usually suggest placing one right under the cage door, but you may want to try putting the perch a little lower, if the cage will accommodate it. Padding the area around the cage with some spare blankets or towels would provide a place for a soft landing. Sitting near the parrot's cage and talking softly to him is a good way to work on building a bond, and helps the parrot to get used to you and his surroundings too. You might also read to your QP or even sing to him. If he's not in the mood to be sociable, you can give him some time to himself. You might want to leave the cage door closed for a while then to let him enjoy his own space for a few minutes-- and that's a good time to sit and talk with him too, while he's inside his cage.
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Post by aaron on Jun 13, 2015 22:02:23 GMT -5
Congratulations on your new little one! You are in for a treat. These guys are pretty incredible. Sounds like things are going pretty well so far. You've gotten good advice from the others. I would not expect your bird to be sitting on the floor of the cage-- not sure what that lady at the pet store was talking about. In fact, going forward, if you find your bird on the floor of their cage for an extended period of time, it is often cause for concern. Here are some key things that I wish I had known from the beginning: - When they do something good (and sometimes that is just being calm and relaxed), give them praise. When they do something undesirable, do not react. Scolding doesn't really work. It can be challenging to not yell "Ow!" when you are bitten, but the more you can avoid that sort of thing, the better. They are encouraged by loud reactions, as well as laughing. So don't laugh if they misbehave, even if it's cute. - Hormones and the behavior they inspire are a big deal with parrots. For Quakers, around 1-2 years old, things can start changing quickly. You've got some time, but the more you educate yourself on the subject and are ready for this, the better. There's plenty of info on this board, and lots of good articles a google search away. - These guys really thrive on eye contact. And they can interpret the expression on your face and the look in your eyes to some degree-- a stern look should accompany words you use to communicate disapproval. They are also very perceptive of your emotional state, and are affected by our moods. Try to maintain a relaxed, cheerful and enthusiastic demeanor with them - It's best if you don't spend more time handling your bird each day right now than you want to spend with them on an ongoing basis. They will notice if your attention tapers off, and it can lead to behavioral issues. - Parrots have a flock mentality. They want to be included in everything. Greet them immediately when you come home and always say goodbye to them when you leave. They appreciate this greatly! - Learn about poop. Because parrots instinctively hide their symptoms because of their flock mentality, the best way to know if your little one is sick is to recognize changes in their droppings. Often by the time they are displaying clear symptoms, the situation is already critical. You want to catch it before it becomes obvious. Good luck and please feel free to ask any questions you might have! Let us know how things progress!
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Post by eunoia93 on Jun 14, 2015 11:40:34 GMT -5
Thanks for all the great input guys! I really appreciate it. I've been sitting by his cage and talking with him So is the general consensus that I shouldn't try to stop him from jumping? I'm not sure if this behavior is ok or not (should I ask about this in the behavior forum?). It honestly makes me very nervous. By the way, In response to this behavior, I've taken to putting him back in his cage when the door closes and when he seems calmer (and seems less leapy) I open the door again. I've done this a couple times but even though he goes inside willingly he then tries tirelessly to get out and back on top of his cage again. He seems to really want to get out sometimes though before he gives up (climbs all over the cage and pulls hard on the door and bars). I hope I'm not traumatizing him or anything.. or making him afraid to be picked up by me. I just one: don't know if i SHOULD be letting him leap from the cage top, and two: either way I don't know how to treat him after he does so. Advice please??
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Post by suzannewright on Jun 15, 2015 20:24:57 GMT -5
One of the responsibilities that comes with owning a parrot is giving them the proper health care they need to live a long, happy and otherwise healthy life. Like any other animal, parrots have specific and needs and requirements that be met to keep them healthy. As the owner, it’s up to you to ensure your parrot’s needs are satisfied and met.
The fact is that far too many people decide to own a parrot without thinking about the health care that goes along with them. Not only are you going to have to invest extra time into caring for your parrot, but it’s also going to cost money. Taking a parrot or any other pet to the veterinarian isn’t free, so if you aren’t willing to invest your time, money and energy into health care for your parrot, then you should refrain from getting one just yet. Living Environment No matter type parrot you decide to purchase, it needs to have a clean and healthy living environment. The ASPCA recommends buying the largest, most well-constructed cage you can afford, as this will give your parrot plenty of room to move around. Even though your parrot may be able to fit in a smaller cage, studies have shown that those in larger cages tend to live happier lives.
Once you’ve set up a suitable cage for your parrot, you’ll need to stay on top of cleaning it. Some people don’t realize that parrot poop can be a harbinger of some pretty harmful bacteria and parasites that can not only affect your parrot, but they can also affect you. The bottom line is that you have to frequently clean their cage inside and out to prevent bacteria from building up. Veterinarian Visits Depending on how healthy your parrot it, you should take them to the veterinarian about once every year for a thorough check up. They will be able to look at their body and check for any signs of health defects, as well as check their weight, size and other features.
Before you go packing your parrot up and hitting the first veterinarian hospital you come across, you need to call to check and see if they deal with parrots. Unfortunately, many veterinarian hospitals don’t service parrots; therefore, owners are left searching for ones that do. If you’re active on some of the online bird forums, you can ask members around your area who they recommend. Toys The key to keeping a parrot mentally happy is to give them plenty of attention and toys to play with. If you neglect your parrot day-after-day, they will grow depressed and may not eat or drink. Give your parrot the love and attention they deserve by spending some time with them each and every day.
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Post by aaron on Jun 16, 2015 9:26:02 GMT -5
So, I haven't been through this with our bird personally, but fledging is very important for ongoing mental and physical well being, so I think at least to some degree this jumping needs to take place. You will need to come up with ways to try to make it safe for the bird, but you don't want to try to prevent the behavior. You might try putting towels down like Biteybird suggested. Give your little guy safe places to land and perhaps cover up your windows and mirrors if there are any in the vicinity.
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Post by eunoia93 on Jun 16, 2015 13:24:08 GMT -5
So, I haven't been through this with our bird personally, but fledging is very important for ongoing mental and physical well being, so I think at least to some degree this jumping needs to take place. You will need to come up with ways to try to make it safe for the bird, but you don't want to try to prevent the behavior. You might try putting towels down like Biteybird suggested. Give your little guy safe places to land and perhaps cover up your windows and mirrors if there are any in the vicinity. Thank you! Yes, I've been letting him jump to bed and hang out by the windowsill there. I just worry because occasionally he has fallen behind some things. I'm working on moving stuff around.
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Post by aaron on Jun 16, 2015 13:41:59 GMT -5
Ah yes, bird-proofing is definitely an ongoing project-- just when you think you've got it all locked down they find another way to get into trouble. Just make sure you supervise him as much as possible so if he gets himself stuck in a sticky situation you will be there for him. Keep us posted on how it goes!
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Post by quakerfriend on Jun 17, 2015 20:00:12 GMT -5
Ooh! One thing I though of while reading about the jumping - if he happens to get stuck, or fly somewhere high and not want to come down, I'd advise you don't get in the habit of rescuing him all the time. That way, he'll become dependent on you to ferry him around all the time. If he gets lost somewhere in the house, then he'll just stay put waiting for you to come get him, which can be difficult knowing what Quakers will get into. Mentally, it'll give him more confidence and independence too.
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Post by aaron on Jun 17, 2015 22:18:36 GMT -5
That's an interesting approach.. I had never thought of that! I guess as long as you know he has landed in a place where he can safely get out that could be good -- but you want to make sure that if they land in a place that you don't want them to go in the future that you get them out of there quickly before they have a chance to decide if it's a place they like or not. That way they might be a bit less likely to go exploring for potential nest locations in dicey spots in the future. So I guess it's really a case by case basis kind of thing. If they can safely rescue themselves and you don't mind them possibly taking an interest in the location in the future then let them go for it
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Post by quakerfriend on Jun 18, 2015 15:00:31 GMT -5
Of course, it would have to be within reason - learning that landing on a stove gets you burnt feet and not wanting to come down from a tall bookcase are entirely different things.
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Post by eunoia93 on Jun 19, 2015 9:46:45 GMT -5
Ooh! One thing I though of while reading about the jumping - if he happens to get stuck, or fly somewhere high and not want to come down, I'd advise you don't get in the habit of rescuing him all the time. That way, he'll become dependent on you to ferry him around all the time. If he gets lost somewhere in the house, then he'll just stay put waiting for you to come get him, which can be difficult knowing what Quakers will get into. Mentally, it'll give him more confidence and independence too. Yes I was actually wondering about this myself! Since my immediate reaction is usually to go straight to him and lift him up. I try now to give him a few moments (if I don't see anything wrong with him) and see if he tries to make his way back to his cage again, letting him climb over a few small obstacles, before picking him up.
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