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Post by Hannah on Sept 16, 2016 22:15:29 GMT -5
Ollie's going through a tough moult, he got a blood feather in his tail but it stopped bleeding within seconds, today I was sitting doing homework near his cage & he started pacing and then I realized there was blood, after careful inspection I realized he had a feather bleeding on his wing. He isn't tame so bringing a towel near the door in his cage made him get ready to fly, so I instead got some q-tips, flour, toilet paper, his spray bottle and a bowl of water.
He wouldn't let me clean him, he bit the q-tip, threw the toilet paper, so I got the spray bottle and sprayed his wing a bit hoping it would help the bleeding, thank goodness it did and then I sprinkled flour on.
How do I avoid another blood feather?
How do I towel him without getting him scared?
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Post by Hannah on Sept 16, 2016 22:16:46 GMT -5
Oh my goodness spellcheck, correction: clean not beat!!!!
I would never do such a thing, sorry if I scared anyone, new update on my phone
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Post by easttex on Sept 17, 2016 8:02:00 GMT -5
Hi Hannah. As you obviously know, bleeding in a bird should be considered a medical emergency. They just don't have much to begin with. It's a little unusual to have two broken blood feathers in quick succession. Is his cage on the small side? I would think about removing anything with distinct edges from his cage until he gets through this. Of course it could be the cage bars that he's breaking feathers against, and that's more of a challenge to remedy. I don't know what the cage looks like, but you could try to hang towels on three sides side of the cage from the inside.
Toweling an unwilling bird inside his cage isn't going to be easy. If you have a moment when he's on the floor of his cage, you might be able to gently drop the towel over all of him, including his head. That instant darkness will calm most birds, and if you can keep his head covered while you work on him, you'll probably find it easier. Make sure you are very calm and speak reassuringly to him the whole time.
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Post by Hannah on Sept 17, 2016 10:27:10 GMT -5
The cage is a large cockatiel cage but he's very small, his toys aren't near places but sometimes he gets frights if there's 2 people in the room.
The vet was closed since it happened on a Friday night both times, the avian vets here are only available 3 days a week, Mondays, Wednesdays, and Thursdays.
We have an animal hospital a few blocks away but it's only open from 10-6.
He regurgitated egg whites from the night before this morning and ate then right after, he does it whenever I'm infront of his cage.
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Post by easttex on Sept 17, 2016 11:26:32 GMT -5
If you think he broke them because he was spooked by something, I'd recommend covering three sides of his cage on the outside, at least for now. It should make him feel more secure if he feels he can retreat.
added:
It's very interesting that he has apparently decided you are an acceptable mate. It seems to me that he was most likely hand raised, and given the right approach, it shouldn't be too hard to re-tame him.
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Post by Hannah on Sept 17, 2016 21:14:02 GMT -5
If you think he broke them because he was spooked by something, I'd recommend covering three sides of his cage on the outside, at least for now. It should make him feel more secure if he feels he can retreat. added: It's very interesting that he has apparently decided you are an acceptable mate. It seems to me that he was most likely hand raised, and given the right approach, it shouldn't be too hard to re-tame him. Okay I'll try that, but normally when I leave the sides of his cage covered he won't eat or drink, he thinks it's time for bed, is it because I use the same cover for when he sleeps? He's fine if I pet his beak now but only once. |
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Post by easttex on Sept 18, 2016 3:51:39 GMT -5
Try covering the whole back, and just half of the sides. An alternative would be to cover one corner. Hopefully one of those would give him some security without making him think it's bed time.
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Post by julianna on Sept 18, 2016 14:01:49 GMT -5
For me to get Oscar used to a towel... I would play with him on the couch with the towel. Placing my hand underneath it and then getting him to chew at it. (ruined many towels however... it was worth it). Now when I get Oscar out of the bath, I instantly cover him with a towel and take him back to his cage. I can even dry him a little with the towel. No fuss... no muss.
You might also try cornstarch if the flour doesn't work to stop bleeding. Bleeding feathers can be very serious and I do not think this is due to his moult. I do understand though that they are more on edge when they moult and their personalities can be more aggressive. Try bathing him more often... it might help to ease the pain of those pin feathers.
When I first got Oscar I thought he was going through some type of disaster when he would moult... now I understand better about how they loose feathers and that it is okay for them to be a little different through those times.
Best wishes.
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Post by Hannah on Sept 19, 2016 12:13:22 GMT -5
I was too scared to give him a spray bath after the first blood feather since I thought I was doing it too often (once a day). His feathers look nicer then when we first got him so I'm wondering if maybe it's a really tough moult because he has a lot of pin feathers.
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Post by julianna on Sept 21, 2016 13:08:10 GMT -5
For them to bathe once a day is a little too much. Oscar bathes around twice a week right now... because he is moulting. He always lets me know when he wants a bath by stretching his neck to the bathroom... then running around the sink. I guess you can tell whether your Quaker likes having the shower or not. If they lift their wings and flutter they are obviously enjoying it... but if they cower away I would presume they do not want one.
You will work out your own schedule Hannah... just watch his actions and go by that.
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Post by Hannah on Sept 22, 2016 11:51:47 GMT -5
He won't come out of his cage so I give him spray baths in the cage, he spins but doesn't spread his wings, plus he quakes too.
His blood feather happened again today I think his toy is irritating it, it has hay sticking out so I think that might be why. The last time he was playing with the toy too.
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Post by beccilouise on Sept 22, 2016 13:11:43 GMT -5
I would immediately get rid of any toy you think might be causing a blood feather to break. They should not be breaking too often though, it really only should happen after a spook or a fall. Have you tried giving him a calcium block and some sprouted seeds? If he is lacking protein in his diet, that may contribute to weaknesses in the feathers. Sprouted seeds contain a variety of proteins. I sprout legumes for Maya, she has sprouted green lentils, mung beans, chickpeas and adzuki beans. Her feathers are in really good condition and she's just coming to the end of her moult. If sprouted seeds are not convenient, hard boiled egg or boiled chicken meat will also provide Ollie with protein, I would start adding these into his diet at least three times a week and make sure his diet includes leafy greens for calcium. Boiled peas are also fairly good for calcium. Maya also has an Arcadia uv light and goes outside on her harness most days now. This means she gets vitamin d to strengthen her feathers too. Brittle feathers suggest a lack of vitamin d. This may be medically specific to your bird. Arcadia lights are really good, Maya has one attached to the side of her cage and I'd really recommend one for Ollie. I'd also take him to see a vet if you can, who will be able to see if there are any underlying issues contributing to brittle feathers. I hope Ollie is ok. Good luck!
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Post by beccilouise on Sept 22, 2016 13:12:07 GMT -5
I would immediately get rid of any toy you think might be causing a blood feather to break. They should not be breaking too often though, it really only should happen after a spook or a fall. Have you tried giving him a calcium block and some sprouted seeds? If he is lacking protein in his diet, that may contribute to weaknesses in the feathers. Sprouted seeds contain a variety of proteins. I sprout legumes for Maya, she has sprouted green lentils, mung beans, chickpeas and adzuki beans. Her feathers are in really good condition and she's just coming to the end of her moult. If sprouted seeds are not convenient, hard boiled egg or boiled chicken meat will also provide Ollie with protein, I would start adding these into his diet at least three times a week and make sure his diet includes leafy greens for calcium. Boiled peas are also fairly good for calcium. Maya also has an Arcadia uv light and goes outside on her harness most days now. This means she gets vitamin d to strengthen her feathers too. Brittle feathers suggest a lack of vitamin d. This may be medically specific to your bird. Arcadia lights are really good, Maya has one attached to the side of her cage and I'd really recommend one for Ollie. I'd also take him to see a vet if you can, who will be able to see if there are any underlying issues contributing to brittle feathers. I hope Ollie is ok. Good luck!
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Post by Hannah on Sept 22, 2016 19:04:10 GMT -5
I'm at the vet right now they think he had a tumour.
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Post by Hannah on Sept 23, 2016 0:02:21 GMT -5
He got tests done and they took a sample of the bump and sent it out to the lab, he's on antibiotics for the next week and painkillers the next 3 days. Hopefully it's just an infection.
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