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Post by Tim on Dec 5, 2015 19:39:29 GMT -5
Hello, New here and i need some advice . My wife and i have a Quaker that's almost 2 . He has become mean to the point of biting Hard enough to draw blood. When he does get out for flight time (which isn't often anymore because of this.) he dive bombs us and our dogs. (his next vet appt. he gets his wings clipped. ) Another problem we have is his screeching which on some days is incessant and results in us moving him and his cage to another room to get some quiet. He is also very defensive of his cage and will attack anyone getting close.. Simply put what is his problem ? Is it a reaction to us not interacting with him a lot anymore because of his behavior ? He used to be really sweet when he was a baby. Any advice will be greatly appreciated.. Thank you..
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Post by biteybird on Dec 6, 2015 2:04:11 GMT -5
Hi Tim, welcome.
I wonder if you are experiencing the 'adult hormonal quaker'. We had/have (on and off) this same problem with Bonnie, who is also nearly 2. We've concluded it must be hormones, along with our unintentional reinforcement of the 'bad' behaviour. We're in Australia and have had some bizarre weather - hot followed by cold days in endless cycles - and are wondering whether her hormone levels are fluctuating because they don't know what season it is (?).
Sometimes I think it's because she doesn't like my husband's fingers, or doesn't like him using the iPad, but sometimes she bites him hard and other times she doesn't. Just the other day she bit me quite hard, which she hasn't done before & it was while I was patting her head and she was purring with pleasure.
We can't figure it out really - sorry, I know this doesn't help you...
I seem to have better results with Bonnie than my husband (he tends to yell & give a big reaction). When she bites/dive bombs/screeches, this is what I do: 1) Try not to make any noise like yelling. Pick her up (if she lets me & it's safe to do so), say "no" firmly, then put her in her cage for 5 minutes. I don't speak to her or even look at her, regardless of how much noise she makes - she watches me intently for any eye contact, but I don't give her any. 2) If she doesn't let me pick her up I walk out of the room and completely ignore her (which she hates), again, for a few minutes. 3) The above has to be immediate for her to associate her behavior with the consequence. 4) After the consequence (5 minutes or so) I come back in and treat it like a new start. I might also get a couple of safflower seeds or pumpkin seeds and hide them in my hand, get her to 'step up' and straight away give her the treat if she does not try to bite.
Others will fill in things I've missed...good luck.
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Post by easttex on Dec 6, 2015 6:34:01 GMT -5
He may be angry, and he's certainly biting, but it's not really helpful to think of him as mean. He's obviously unhappy about something, but every behavior is a response to something, and you have the ability to reshape his behavior. This link will take you to one of the best summaries of parrot biting and how to respond that I have found. It's long, but there is some really helpful information there: www.stfrancisanimalandbird.com/index.php/pet-resources/library/9-avian-care/84-my-parrot-bites-what-can-i-doI hope that helps give you some insight, and I hope you are able to recover the good bird that is currently hiding inside this other one.
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Post by julianna on Dec 8, 2015 15:04:27 GMT -5
Has your bird bonded with one person yet? They usually will and attack all others. The possessive nature towards his cage is very common. No one is allowed near my QP's cage ... not even my husband. Only I can put my hand in to clean it. My QP - Oscar - will still draw blood and even from me (even though I am his partner) and it is usually over food. His food is his food and my food is our food.
If you have decided to clip his wings just be very careful when you get him home as he will want to fly and will try. This will result with him falling to the floor and hopefully the wings are not clipped too much because he could hurt himself quite a lot. My QP fell twice and both times knocked the air out of himself and I thought he was going to die. Other QP's have actually cracked their bills or their breast bone so please watch carefully. Good Luck
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Post by beccilouise on Dec 10, 2015 6:06:04 GMT -5
Helloooo. Am pretty new to the forum and quaker parrots too, but I do know that when adolescence hits (around 2 or just before) all hookbills, but quakers in particular, begin to establish their place in the hierarchy of the flock. Clipping his wings may well help to curb his aggressive behaviour as he will not be able to attack you from up high any more. I'm not saying it will stop it completely. Another good tip I had was to perch train a quaker using a t-perch, so that you could use that to fetch them out of the cage rather than your hands if your bird is cage-precious. I have tried this with Byron although he's currently terrified of the t perch. He has started to hop onto it and is improving. Also cutting down on mushy foods and limiting the bird to 12 hours of sunlight have also been recommended to me as really good behaviour controllers. Best of luck!
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Post by bruce on Dec 14, 2015 3:17:58 GMT -5
Tim, I cannot add to the advice, I can however offer my empathy. Chuckie, the QP I inherited, was a real handful at the start. With patience, good patterning, and a major diet change (see pellet vs. seed threads on board), I now have a somewhat cranky QP rather than a 3.5 ounce demon. I joke with my friends that we have reached bird-tente: he agrees to usually refrain from excessive screeching and biting if I warn him ahead of time what I am about to do.
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sara
Hatchling
Posts: 6
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Post by sara on Dec 15, 2015 10:54:40 GMT -5
All Quakers are absolute cuddle bugs when they're little. They're super quiet, make that wonderful purring noise, and want to nuzzle. When they get older, that changes. It's normal to have some screaming. They're just excited. But it sounds like the combo of screaming and biting and dive bombing is an unhappy birdy. Would recommend (if you don't do this already): - move bird to a room where he will not be bothered by the dogs. Dogs jumping or barking can be terrifying. My Quaker was scared to death of hamsters haha so imagine the terror of a dog!! - spend 15 min or more ACTIVELY with your parrot each day. Right now sounds like he doesn't want to be handled too much so maybe that means just talking to him. If he is willing to sit on your finger outside the cage, talk to him for a bit there. - spend at least 15 min of inactive time. As in reading in the same room. Eating in the same room. Watching tv in the same room. So he feels reassured that you're not a threat and that he's part of the flock. - screeching can be from hormones but also boredom or loneliness or stress. Make sure he's got toys that he enjoys (some are preeners, some shredders, etc buy toys that cater to his needs). - defensive of his cage is normal Quaker behavior Sounds like a combo of hormones and grumpy Quaker syndrome You can't do a whole lot about the hormones except wait a little. But the grump you can help a little. Good luck!
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