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Post by easttex on Oct 23, 2017 8:31:41 GMT -5
To be clearer, I meant separate them completely, not just for training. For one thing, things may be fine now, but once a quaker is sexually mature, it can be very territorial and cage possessive. It's a very natural thing for them. They are often colonial nesters in the wild, but every breeding pair has its own space, and they won't tolerate intrusion. A budgie would be defenseless, and could be maimed or even killed before you knew there was a problem. If I were you, I would consider this before putting another quaker in with your budgie.
Secondly, it is not at all uncommon for parrots, even those properly socialized, to lose interest in people when they are housed with other birds. Obviously, Kaspar has other issues as well, but you've handicapped yourself in allowing him to bond with your budgie. Separating them might be hard on one or both of them, but that's moot if you're going to rehome Kaspar anyway.
His lack of early socialization may well have some permanent effects, but if handled properly, he still could make someone a good companion. It means a big commitment, though. I'd be sorely tempted myself if I lived in your area. I hope you find a good home for him.
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Post by easttex on Oct 22, 2017 16:56:53 GMT -5
I'd suggest you separate the two birds. It might be necessary in the long run anyway, because Kaspar may eventually become cage possessive. It's common in Quakers. He might take more of an interest in people if he doesn't have a bird companion, and it might be easier on your budgie.
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Post by easttex on Oct 22, 2017 16:50:08 GMT -5
Buzz's age is no deterrent, but an egg-bound bird will generally look pretty miserable. If Buzz is behaving normally, not staying at the bottom of the cage, for example, it's probably not that. If you can, try wrapping him(?) in a towel and gently turn him upside down where you can take a good look at his vent. If you still think there might be a chance it's an egg, you can try putting - let's just say "her", in a warm, steamy room, and place her in a shallow bath. Warm water. Or on a warm, wet towel. Some people will say to massage the area, but you have to be careful not to break the egg.
You really need to find a vet, whatever the lump is. I don't have an avian vet in my area, but do have one within 50 miles who is very experienced with birds.
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Post by easttex on Oct 22, 2017 5:31:35 GMT -5
Welcome to the forum! I agree with biteybird. Kaspar doesn't sound ready for all this attention. If you really want to make it work with him, ease up and let him set the pace.
Put his cage where he can watch everybody, but not in the thick of things. Let him learn your routine without placing any demands on him. Read his body language, and when he seems to be getting more comfortable, put a perch on the outside of his cage (close to the door works well), and keep the door open when you are in the room and can keep an eye on him. Be patient and loving, and don't push him beyond his comfort level.
As biteybird said, he might have been traumatized by something. Or he might have been parent raised. In any case, try to empathize with him. He's been forcibly taken from everything familiar to him and is now in a land of aliens who expect him to perform.
This is important: when you get to a point of frustration/anxiety/negativity/etc., walk away and don't interact with him. They are very sensitive and can mirror your emotions, and it can be hard to break out of that cycle.
I hope you can resolve this to everyone's mutual happiness, but if not, rather than selling him to anyone who is willing to pay, please try to find him an understanding and experienced home. I don't mean this in a harsh way, but I'd recommend against replacing him with a macaw if you can't make it work with Kaspar. They are that much more complicated, and should go to really knowledgeable homes.
Please let us know how it's going with Kaspar.🙂
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Post by easttex on Oct 21, 2017 4:10:32 GMT -5
I don't really have a good answer for you, but wanted to commiserate. Even goldfish can become depressed, and considering the strength of the bond a parrot will build, I'm sure you're you're right that Blue is very sad. As to why, specifically, he flies to the budgies, you're in the best position to read his body language. He might be feeling insecure and is going for "strength in numbers." He also might be getting some comfort from their company, though I would make sure they are kept separate. He would probably benefit from increased one-on-one, focused attention, if you can give it to him.
If it would be possible to post a video clearly showing his behavior, you might be able to get more help on this.
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Post by easttex on Oct 12, 2017 11:42:50 GMT -5
Most definitely yes on pellets over seeds. They can't get the nutrition they need on seeds. I hadn't read that about fungus in sunflower seeds, but it is commonly known as a problem with unshelled peanuts. Too many sunflower seeds, in addition to being fatty, will deplete the calcium they need.
Kiki may be a little resistant to pellets at first, and you may have to experiment with sizes, colors, etc. Be persistent, and you'll get it done. Since he does like the seeds, you might be able to use his favorites as training motivators.
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Post by easttex on Oct 12, 2017 8:25:07 GMT -5
I'm glad to read you're getting on so well! If you ever come to think Milo's bites are too painful, I advise you to visit a friend with a cockatoo, African grey, or macaw, and invite a nip. That's the smash-your-elbow-with-a-hammer-so-you-forget-the-pain-in-your-head theory of relativity.
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Post by easttex on Oct 11, 2017 11:26:58 GMT -5
I had a cream from a vet that I got for Allie after she crash landed and banged up her breastbone a little. Silver nitrate solution rings a bell, but I can't swear to that. I also have something over the counter called HealX Soother Plus. It's edible, which is important, and it has both antibiotic and analgesic qualities. I don't know if it's still available. If not, I hope it was replaced by something because many people raved about it.
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Post by easttex on Oct 9, 2017 8:18:09 GMT -5
That is great news. Theoretically, he should get enough water from the formula, but if wasn't taking in much of that, he sure could have been dehydrated. Once you're confident he's not, I'd back off on the water. He needs the nutrients the formula gives him to develop properly.
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Post by easttex on Oct 9, 2017 6:11:52 GMT -5
I found this site www.petcha.com/baby-parrot-development-stages/ which discussing eye opening. There's no info on Quakers, but I'm guessing their development would be similar to a conure's. According to that, the eyes should be opening in the two to three week timeframe. The lack of noise could be related to his being alone. I'm just theorizing, though. He might get some comfort if you add some company for him in the nest. Maybe a stuffed animal similar to his size? As he develops, his appetite should get more voracious. I would really encourage you to contact an avian vet. The only experience I've had with super-young chicks has been with wild birds, so I'm not a baby parrot expert by any means. I agree with biteybird. If there is someone you can report the breeder to, please do.
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Post by easttex on Oct 9, 2017 4:06:21 GMT -5
That is an incredibly irresponsible breeder!
I don't know exactly when a baby Quaker develops balance, but I'm not surprised he's clumsy. He should still be in the nest, in a warm pile with his siblings. I would take him out of the brooder only long enough to feed him and cuddle, but wouldn't set him down on his feet. He needs to continue developing first.
I would waste no time in finding an avian vet to help you with your little guy.
It's a bit of a hassle to post photos here. They have to be linked from a hosting site. Photobucket no longer seems to work unless you are a paying customer. I've posted from Facebook before. You can also use YouTube and Instagram, or one of the smaller hosting sites like tinypic.
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Post by easttex on Oct 6, 2017 19:50:51 GMT -5
Oh no! Things seemed to be looking up there. She's lucky she found your way to you. I'll be sending good thoughts your way.
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Post by easttex on Oct 6, 2017 4:32:06 GMT -5
It can be hard to accustom some Quakers to hands inside their cages. As communal nesters in the wild, they defend their micro-territories, so it seems to be more in their nature than with other parrots. I can't remember who first came up with the idea here, but you can also attach a perch just outside the door of the cage. You may not need that if he continues so well with the stick, though.
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Post by easttex on Oct 6, 2017 4:23:00 GMT -5
Must be The Year Siobhan's Quakers Mellowed. What's your secret?
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Post by easttex on Oct 6, 2017 4:19:21 GMT -5
Hmmm. "Interesting" people. Must be a euphemism, but I can't imagine for what. How about you, Gary? Have you found a quieter place?
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